*Before I get into terminal trouble with the sainted Mrs Grumbler, without who's gracious permission this walk would not be taking place, I should point out that I am referring to the sleeping arrangements for this evening. This is a popular area, and a room of one's own is hard to come by, and should be treasured. Tonight's stop is the Royal Oak hotel in Rossthwaite (the capital of Borrowdale), a charming establishment in a nice little village, and so far they have done us proud.
The fox and hounds last night turned out to be a happy place. We were made welcome and, while it wasn't the most organised operation I've encountered, they tried harder to make us comfortable than many others. Good ale, good food, good company, crap jokes. I felt quite at home.
We set out from Ennerdale this morning, walked alongside the lake, and through a forest to the Black Sail youth hostel - the most remote of its kind in the country. A rest, two cups of tea, and a pound in the honesty box, and we were off to tackle the stepped climb alongside Loft Beck. This is a bit steeper, longer and higher than yesterday's struggle up Dent Hill, but strangely I was less tired at the top today. Getting fitter already, obviously - or maybe it was the unparalleled view, which took what little breath I had left quite away from me. I'm certainly not the first or only person to do this little walk, but I honestly couldn't have had a better sense of achievement if I had been. If you ever get the opportunity, do it. Mike looks quite chuffed too.
At this early stage, we keep meeting the same folk on the trail - again and again. It's actually quite a nice thing to see familiar faces as you go, even if some of them have accused Mike and I of being brothers! From this point onwards we'll start to thin out, as some will walk further than others and the stops are staggered across many villages.
Once 'over the top', the workings of Honister slate mine bite deep into the hillside, but this scarring of the landscape somehow looks right. Shouldn't be a surprise, because industry's been responsible for a lot of the local landscape over the years. Down at the slate mine HQ, the cafe delivered a pair of well earned ice creams, before we trudged up to the crest of the Honister pass, and down the other side to Borrowdale.
A short day tomorrow, from here to Grasmere. I think we'll take our time!
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